Guns Magazine · April, 2003 More bang for your buck: survival tips for buying used guns by Glenn Barnes
Shopping for a used firearm can be compared to looking for a pre-owned vehicle. There are good ones waiting for the knowledgeable consumer, and bad ones destined for the unwary. The secret to being satisfied with your purchase is learning the difference between the good, the bad, and yes, the ugly. In this three-part series on buying used guns we'll learn what to look for when considering the purchase of a pre-owned semiautomatic handgun. Part two will deal with the intricacies and special needs of the revolver shopper, and part three will cover the many aspects pertinent to buying a long gun. Why Buy Used? There are many reasons to choose a used auto versus a new one. The most popular is of course the money we save. Over-stretched budgets and non-understanding spouses will also appreciate this bit of wise logic. Maybe your interest lies in handguns no longer manufactured. Many of us love those classy old pocket autos produced by Colt, Remington, and Savage. These handguns are still around in large numbers and may often be had at a reasonable price, but the only place to find them is on the used gun market. Do you collect or shoot say, German military handguns? Newly manufactured Lugers and P-38s are a thing of the past. Still want one? You can find them by haunting the used handgun counter at your local gun shop, or most any decent gun show. Twenty some years standing behind the gun shop counter will teach you a thing or two about what to look for when buying used handguns. Mistakes directly affected my profits, so I tried hard to avoid them. For the most part, I did. Armed with the simple tips we will discuss, you too can be assured of avoiding costly mistakes, and in the process, wind up with a bargain instead of a burden. You've decided you're in the market for a used semiautomatic pistol. You waltz into your favorite gun shop to look around. In the last handgun counter, partially hidden under an array of accessories, lies what you have in mind -- a commercial Colt 1911. You ask the clerk to hand it to you for inspection. The observations you make now, and the questions you ask, will determine the success or failure of your venture. First Impressions Just like people, that first impression means a lot, and is usually a lasting one. Holding the pistol in your hand, turn it over several times. How does the exterior look? Are there any serious dings or scratches in the metal? Has it been re-finished? Check for the tell-tale effects of corrosion and pitting. Does it show signs of holster wear? Are the stocks damaged or cracked? What about the sights? Are they bent and out of shape? Do the screws show evidence of abuse through the use of ill-fitting screwdrivers? Keep these things in mind when you first examine the handgun. It will tell you quite a bit about the gun and its former keeper. At first impression, this one looks pretty good on the outside. One small ding on the slide, a couple of minor scratches and a pretty bad dent on the rear sight, along with minor holster wear. The front sight is straight. The grip screws are in rough shape, which is not uncommon on these guns. The clerk said it has not been refinished. He's a nice guy; you've dealt with him before and trust him. Reading Bumps And Bruises Let's delve a little deeper into your first impression and translate what you see into basic bottom line English. Dings can only mean one of two things. Either the handgun was dropped, or something was dropped on it. Handguns are capable of withstanding a certain amount of abuse and still function properly. You shouldn't be too concerned with a few minor dings unless, of course, they interfere with the function of the handgun. We want a shooter, not a collector's piece. A few minor scratches doesn't hurt anything either. We are not concerned with the minor holster wear. Holster wear adds character and does not affect the functionality of the handgun. Don't worry about those buggered grip screws; they can be replaced for next to nothing. Your salesman said this has not been refinished. If you can't tell yourself, trust him. He really does want you to be happy with your purchase. Refinishing a handgun does not hurt anything other than its value. It does make you wonder if something is being covered up. Keep this in mind as you inspect further. Often you'll encounter used autos that sport little or no factory finish. The effects of holster wear have taken their toll. The price is often low enough to entice you to purchase it and maybe have it professionally refinished, This move seldom pays off. The cost of refinishing a handgun usually starts around $150, and adds nothing to the value of your handgun. In fact, it will ruin any potential collectors' value the pistol may possess. This 1911 appears to be just what you had in mind. You can live with the few cosmetic defects. But before you reach for your wallet, let's check out a few more important details. The Old Pencil Trick Will the handgun actually fire? Short of a trip to the range to see for yourself, you don't know. Most gun shops will guarantee the handgun's functionality, but if it doesn't work, you still have to carry it back, which costs you time, not to mention the aggravation. A quick and easy way to check the firing pin and mainspring (with the storekeeper's permission) is to drop a pencil down the barrel, cock the hammer and pull the trigger. This is also a great time to check the safety functions. If you're not sure where they are located, by all means have the clerk show you. If all is in order, when you pull the trigger, the pencil should sail from the barrel, If not, you know there is a potential problem. Maybe there's no firing pin, maybe it's broken, or perhaps the mainspring is weak. Will your handgun extract cartridges from the chamber? There's only one way to find out. Most shops have a few snap caps, dummy rounds or fired cases lying around; insert one into the chamber. Pull the slide back briskly, and the dummy round should extract easily, the ejector sending the round flying. Repeat this process several times to insure everything is in order. Getting Below The Skin We've given this candidate a good external inspection, but there's more to check. Ask the clerk if it's all right to field strip the pistol. If you are not sure how to do this yourself, kindly ask the salesman to perform this chore for you. Usually they will be happy to comply. Glance down the barrel to check for bulges or pitting. A bulge is easy to spot even by the most inexperienced eye. It reveals itself as a ring on the inside, and if it's a bad one, you can actually feel it as you run your fingers along the exterior of the barrel. Don't over look this important inspection. While you're looking down the barrel, make sure it has n nice clean bore. By clean, I mean not worn out. The lands and grooves should be in good shape; the inside should not be gray or murky; it should be nice and bright. That's what you want. The muzzle crown is n particularly crucial area Make absolutely certain it has no dings, dents, or heavy scratches. If every thing else on the pistol looks good, and the crown is damaged in any way, pass on the weapon and find something else, or figure in the cost to have a gunsmith re-cut it. A nice smooth crown is a must for good accuracy. Tell-Tale Wear Let's look at the inside of the slide. What you're checking for now is excessive wear and cracks. A small pocket magnifying glass might come in handy for this. I use one regularly. Expect to see some normal wear and tear, after all, it is a used pistol. Excessive wear generally means the gun has been shot a whole lot, probably thousands and thousands of rounds. It could also mean it has digested countless rounds of ammunition loaded to extreme pressures. If you're interested in a shooter, you should avoid a handgun that shows excessive wear. Cracks in the slide are obviously something to avoid so examine carefully. Using your magnifying glass, look at the breech-face and the firing pin hole. The surface of the breech-face should be nice and smooth. I've examined some that exhibited roughness and tool-marks, which is a sure sign of sub-standard workmanship. The firing pin hole should be round and free from burrs. So far, this pistol is shaping up to be a keeper. Let's turn our attention to the frame. There is no two ways about it; frames take a beating. Modern steels and alloys help alleviate the wear to some degree, but it still pays to examine closely. A proper slide to frame fit helps enormously to reduce excessive wear. Examine the frame rails. They should be free of marks or gouges, exhibit minimal wear, and the slide should ride smoothly across the rails with no resistance. Don't Sweat The Small Stuff Should you check out the springs? This may sound a little crazy to you, but springs in a used handgun are not that important to me. Why? The first thing I do is replace them with a new set. Springs wear and should be changed every 3,000 rounds to insure proper functioning. You have no way of knowing if they have ever been changed, so it makes sense to start out with a fresh set. After assembling the pistol, cycle the action a few times to make sure everything is correct. Check the safety functions making sure they work properly. Examine the magazine carefully. There should be no dents in the body and the feed lips should show no cracks or damage. If any of these are evident, discard the magazine and buy a new one. Your "new to you," pistol, checked out fine. One last thing you need to ask the salesman about before you lay down your hard-earned cash is the warranty. As mentioned earlier, most shops will guarantee the firearm's functionality, but what happens if any hidden problems arise? How is he going to take care of you and the problem? Obtain clear and precise answers and if they satisfy you, buy the pistol. Later, at the range, this pistol shot and functioned perfectly. It proved to be a real keeper. You're happy and you should be. You're homework and knowledge of what to look for in a used handgun paid off, and you saved enough money to buy a new holster and several boxes of ammunition. Good deal! Well-Used Rimfires Our used pistol example was based loosely on a 1911. The same principles of examination apply to virtually any centerfire semi-automatic handgun, and using them properly and wisely will result in a used pistol you can be proud of. Self-loading rimfire handguas are checked out much the same way as their bigger brothers. Keep in mind however, that the modest cost of .22 ammunition means most rimfire pistols have fired many, many, thousands of rounds. Encountering used rim-fires that haven't been shot a great dealt is a rare occurrence. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with them, just make sure you examine them with extra care. Finding used auto pistols in fine shape gets easier all the time. Police trade-ins are found regularly and are superb buys. You get a lot for your dollar. Usually they are perfect mechanically; they've just acquired that mature look. Thinking Down The Road One thing to bear in mind when shopping for a used semi-auto is to watch out for oddball foreign handguns. Many are priced low enough to entice you to buy them, but should you need service or parts, you're out of luck. Use the common sense approach and shop wisely. Foreign made autos aren't the only handguns that can be difficult to repair. Older, discontinued examples of American made pistols are sometimes hard to find parts for. Keep this in mind as you shop. If the handgun of your choice happens to be an obsolete model, don't let the scarcity of parts discourage you from buying it if you really want it. Quality gunsmiths abound in this country, and most are able to fabricate the necessary parts should the need arise. One topic we should discuss is custom autos. Years ago, the only way to obtain an extremely accurate pistol was to have a gunsmith accurize it. Thankfully, this is no longer necessary, as most semi-autos leave the factory fully capable of target grade precision. Custom work has never been inexpensive and it never will be, but you should not expect to pay a high tariff for someone else's project. Examine custom handguns closely. If you have never heard of the gunsmith you may consider choosing another gun, or if you really like it, check the gunsmith out. You might have a really nice shooter. Whether your interest lies in finding a bargain, or in obtaining a handgun no longer in production, buying a used pistol is always a sound option. Look them over carefully, exercise good judgement, and not only will you save money, you'll probably enjoy the search as well.
Guns Magazine · May, 2003 Part Two: Revolvers
A quality revolver, be it double or single action, is a splendid work of incredible precision. That buttery smooth action commonly encountered on old Colts and 'Smiths is not there by accident. Factory workers are highly trained to produce this "feel," and their task requires great skill. Unfortunately, due to the very nature of this precise machine, it is subject to wear and tear at a slightly increased pace compared to some other types of firearms. It seems as if there are more good used revolvers on the market now than ever before. The reason may be that semiauto pistols are currently more "fashionable" than revolvers, and many have traded off fine six-guns towards the hot auto pistol of the moment. The savvy shooter knows that for many uses, a revolver is tops. Before you consider purchasing a used six-gun, let's first examine what you might expect to encounter, and discuss what to watch out for. Your ultimate goal in searching for a used revolver is to find one that will provide you with years of trouble free service and satisfaction. Armed with the tips we will discuss, finding a quality used revolver is much simpler than you might imagine. Hands-On Examination Having found a likely prospect at your local emporium, the first step (as always) is to verify the revolver is unloaded. Now, check the overall appearance of the handgun. Does it show signs of obvious abuse, such as dents, dings, or heavy scratches? Screw slots should be examined carefully. Are the adjustable sight screws damaged in any way? What about the side-plate or frame screws? Are they burred and stripped? If so, the six-gun's previous owner failed to use proper fitting screwdrivers. This may seem like a minor detail, but if he cared so little for the revolver as to neglect this small detail, what else might he have disdained? Is the finish worn evenly? Most handguns, and especially hunting revolvers, are typically carried in some type of holster. Normal holster wear generally reveals itself in three areas - at the muzzle, the front bottom portioa of the frame, and around the cylinder. If the finish is worn in areas other than these, it more than likely denotes the use of an improperly fitting holster. This isn't damaging, but once again, it makes you wonder. Most double-action revolvers have a sideplate that covers and protects the internal lock-work. Examine it carefully. Has it been removed and re-installed ham-handedly? You can usually tell at a glance if this is the case. The edges of the sideplate are easily peened by careless removal or installation. Another simple tip if you aren't sure, is to drag a fingernail over the area. High spots and burrs are readily detected in this manner. There is certainly nothing wrong with removing the sideplate of a six-gun--many shooters do this at least once a year as part of routine cleaning and maintenance. But a beat-up sideplate makes you wonder what hidden damage may exist. Bore And Crown To examine the bore, swing the cylinder open, or alternately (on single-action guns), remove the cylinder from the frame. Closely inspect the bore and crown. The bore should be nice and bright and free of any bulges. A dent and ding free crown is crucial to good accuracy. Six-guns are normally cleaned from the muzzle and it takes only one slip with a metal cleaning rod to damage the crown. If most of your shooting is done at relatively close range, a slightly dinged crown may not adversely affect the size of your groups. If the pre-owned revolver of your choice is to be used for hunting, where longer shots are the norm, even a slightly damaged crown may cause you to miss that buck of a lifetime. Next, inspect the forcing cone. Highpressure cartridges wreak havoc on them. Typically, a little wear will not impair good accuracy. If it shows more than a little erosion, and you intend to fire mostly full-house loads, you may consider opting for another example. If your goal is low to medium velocity handloads for pleasure shooting and small game hunting, a slightly eroded forcing cone should not adversely affect the size of your groups. Notice the top strap directly above the forcing cone? More than likely you will see a straight line cut into it from hot gasses escaping from the barrel/cylinder gap. This is normal and unavoidable. Fortunately, it only seems to erode a certain amount and then stops. Barrel/cylinder gap is usually set from the factory somewhere around .004 to .006 inch. You can quickly check it with a simple feeler gauge. The larger the gap, the faster the top strap erodes. Where The Action Is With the cylinder open, examine the breech-face and recoil shield. The recoil shield is a separate piece of steel surrounding the firing pin and should be firmly set in place. Not all firearms use an independent recoil shield; some are an integral part of the breech-face itself. Whichever the case with the six-gun you are examining, make sure the firing pin hole is free from burrs and dings that could possibly interfere with ignition of primers. The breech-face on a revolver takes a tremendous beating as it stops the rearward thrust of the fired cartridge. This abuse eventually wears the blue away, often imprinting the headstamp of the cartridge upon it. Stainless steel six-guns are subject to this as well; the breech-face just gets shinier as it wears. It should be smooth and free from burrs and dings just like the recoil shield. Remember if you happen upon one that has a blue-worn breech-face, it has been my experience that it takes a lot of rounds to do this. With the cylinder still open, let's look at the ejector rod. Most six-guns built today have an enclosed ejector housing, which protects it from damage. Give the cylinder a spin and check for any wobble in the ejector rod. If you detect any, a trip to the gunsmith may be in order. Using your ever-present pocket magnifying glass, examine the cylinder ratchet shoulders for signs of abuse or wear. The cylinder of a revolver rotates as the hand pushes upward against the ratchet shoulders, eventually causing wear to this area. I have encountered more than a few six-guns that had obtained ratchet shoulder damage while its owner was attempting to clean it. They had removed the cylinder, and it slipped out of oily hands onto a hard floor, damaging this critical area. Single action six-guns are more prone to this accident, as their cylinders are removed from the handgun for normal cleaning operations. One thing to check that is often overlooked is the extractor pins. These are the two pins located underneath the extractor that holds it in line. It isn't often you encounter a revolver with broken or missing pins, but it does happen. The factory or a good gunsmith can replace missing pins on a S&W, while the entire cylinder must be replaced on a Ruger. Keep this in mind. Worth A Close Look Close the cylinder and let's check the timing. If the used revolver is a Ruger or S&W: Lightly place your thumb and middle finger around the cylinder. Slowly cock the hammer back (Single action mode). The bolt should slip into the cylinder notch just before you reach full cock. If it doesn't, it's out of time. Most Colts, on the other hand, if you were to use this same method of timing check, would probably read as out of time. Colts, if cocked slowly, will usually not allow the bolt to slip into the cylinder notch until the trigger is depressed, only then will it slip into place as it should. If it doesn't, then it's out of time. Ordinarily, an out of time revolver is due to a worn hand or one that needs adjusting. Either way it is a simple fix for an experienced gun-doctor. A slightly Out of time six-gun will only get worse the more you shoot it, but I wouldn't let that keep me from buying the gun if everything else checked out fine. Next, examine the fit of cylinder locking bolt to cylinder notches. The notches should be sharp and show little to no wear. To check for excessive wear or abuse, simply cock the hammer and manually rotate the cylinder from side to side. A little movement is normal. A lot of slop indicates excessive wear. Pass on this revolver and move on to the next. A DA revolver's cylinder crane should fit tightly against the frame. No detectable gap is ideal. A small gap is common and presents no problem, however, if it is large, more than likely either the frame or crane has been warped. All Shook Up Let's check for excessive endshake. When a firing pin drops on a primer igniting the powder charge, the cartridge and cylinder move slightly forward. Pressures cause the cartridge case to expand against the cylinder wall and the backward propulsion forces the cylinder to the rear. This constant battering will eventually cause excessive endshake. Grasp the cylinder between your thumb and middle finger and try to move the cylinder forward and backwards, A little movement is normal--even new six-guns have a small amount of endshake. Excessive movement more than likely means the revolver has been fired quite a lot and you should look for another or anticipate the cost of having this repaired. Cock the hammer back and gently push forward on it. Nothing should happen. If the hammer falls, a trip to the gunsmith is in order and the repair bill is not likely to be small. If the used revolver of your choice is wearing rubber grips, ask the salesman to remove them for you. It has been my experience, and sometimes misfortune, that rubber grips attract and hold moisture underneath, promoting rust. These simple tests for examining a used revolver can be applied to practically any six-gun on the used handgun market. One thing to add... If your pre-owned revolver happens to be a .22 rimfire--excessive dry firing may damage the counterbored chambers. It will eventually peen the edge of the chamber making inserting a cartridge almost impossible. Get Assurances If everything checked Out fine with the preowned six-gun of your choice go ahead and buy it. Of course, you won't know how it shoots nor if it has any hidden problems until you take it to the range, so ask the salesman about a return policy. Most reputable gun shops will be happy to repair or replace a problem handgun if it's possible. Some shops have no guarantee, and if you buy it, they consider the problem, and the gun, yours. Possibly more used revolvers are on the market today than at any other time in sixgun history. Most, if not all, law enforcement agencies and security forces have made the switch from revolvers to semiautos. This transition has flooded the used handgun market with quality revolvers at bargain prices. Using the careful shopping practices we have discussed, you can be assured of obtaining the best of these buys. Next month, we'll take a quick look at choosing a used long gun.
Guns Magazine · June, 2003 Part Three: Long Guns
Shoulder fired arms, be they shotguns or rifles have always sparked and fascinated the imagination of the American shooter. From Davy Crockett battling Santa Anna's troops with his faithful Tennessee long rifle, to Billy Dixon at Adobe Walls, to Sergeant Alvin York creeping through the trenches of the Argonne with 1917 Enfield in his dirt-encrusted hands. Perhaps in your mind's eye you can still see grandpa leading a wet-behind-the-ears kid on a first squirrel hunt. Can you still feel the weight of his trusty Iver Johnson single barrel shotgun as he placed it in your hands? Long guns in this country are viewed as historical and sentimental, often at the same time. It only stands to reason that most of us would like to own a variety of long guns, but unfortunately, the majority of shooters just can't afford to fork over the cash for a new firearm every time we feel the need. That's why wise gunners choose to shop for a quality used rifle or shotgun. Not only is it possible to save quite a bit of money compared to a new gun, if you shop wisely, with quality in mind, one day you will pass along your own piece of sentimental steel to a loved one for them to enjoy. Hunting And Target Rifles Why don't we start with rifles? Generally speaking, rifles may be placed into two categories whether they are centerfire or rimfire--hunting and target. On average, hunting rifles are fired very little compared to their target cousins. Often they bounce around on a truck seat, or maybe ride in a saddle scabbard all day strapped to an unruly mustang, acquiring numerous dings and dents. It doesn't take long before a frequently used hunting rifle begins looking pretty sad on the outside. This doesn't mean we should avoid used hunting rifles, on the contrary, they often provide us with some really great bargains in terms of price and quality if we can live with a few cosmetic flaws. Pre-owned target rifles on the other hand, have usually been shot extensively, but may still appear new looking. Let's delve a bit deeper and look beyond face value, for looks can often be deceiving. The used gun shopper would be wise to keep this in mind. Rifles are produced in many action types--bolt, semiauto, pump, lever, and the various single-shot actions such as Ruger's Number One. The basics of inspecting them are virtually the same, but we will point out the nuances where they apply. The Big Picture Used long guns abound on dealer's racks giving us ample opportunity to examine several. Finding something that catches your eye, the first step is to give glance at the price tag is a good step, but if that fails to scare you off, examine the big picture and then we'll concentrate on the details. How does it look? Does the stock weat the scars from numerous adventures afield? If the rifle sports a wood stock, inspect it closely for cracks and splits, especially in the wrist area. Your ever-present pocket magnifying glass will come in handy for this chore. Cracks and splits can be detrimental to good accuracy, and could possibly cause injury to the shooter should the rifle decide to come apart when fired. Dents and dings in the stock won't hamper the performance of the rifle, they just look bad. Don't concern yourself with them unless they are in areas critical to safe functioning of the rifle, or unless you can't tolerate a couple of character marks, you may wish to switch your focus to new guns. How does the finish appear? Has it worn evenly, or does it exhibit more wear in some spots than others? This may warn you whether or not its previous owner cared let it ride in his truck's gun rack most of its life bouncing around unattended to. Check the rifle's safety functions and make double sure they operate smoothly and work properly. You will want to try out the trigger. Some shops frown on dry firing, so ask the sales person if it's permitted. If the trigger suits your fancy, that's great, if not, it is a simple and relatively inexpensive task for a qualified gunsmith to smooth it to perfection. Don't Assume--Check It Out Pull the bolt or open the action and give careful scrutiny to the extractor, ejector and firing pin or striker nose if visible. It's easy to just assume these are in good order, but a broken or missing part if not discovered until later can be an expensive mistake. Examine the firing pin hole to make sure it has not been damaged in any way, which usually reveals itself by dings or buffs. If possible, use a dummy cartridge to verify the rifle will feed, extract and eject properly. Examine the fit of' the forend to the barrel. In a perfect world, the stock would appear to have grown around the metal, with no uneven gaps or lines present at all. This is rarely, if ever, encountered on a production rifle. Most bolt-action rifles leave the factory with the barrel free-floated, or the stock may have a pressure point left in place at the tip of the forearm to aid consistency. Either way, make sure the barrel is aligned properly in the stock. There should be an equal amount of gap on either side of the barrel. If the barrel appears to lean towards one side of the forearm, a bedding job may be in order. This is easily done by an experienced gun-doctor, or you may do it yourself, which is not quite as hard as you may think. No Compromise Areas Next, scrutinize the muzzle crown carefully. It is virtually impossible for a rifle to deliver pinpoint accuracy with a damaged crown. It should be free from any--and I stress any--dings, pits or obvious wear. Run your fingers down the sides of the barrel to feel for any bulges. Remove the bolt, or open the action as best you can to inspect the bore and chamber. Using a borelight or reflector of some sort, examine the rifle's bore closely. Look for any bulges, usually evident by a dark ring in the bore. Make sure the bore is bright and does not appear murky. High-pressure cartridges erode the throat much faster than standard ones, so pay attention to this area. A rusty or scarred chamber can make extraction difficult. Give it all a careful look. One important point to inspect that is often overlooked, is the scope mount holes. There are a lot of folks out there who know nothing about properly mounting a scope and if not done correctly, the holes can become damaged to the point where they need to be re-drilled and tapped. Gunsmiths typically charge up to $20 per hole in my area, which if needed, obviously adds a great deal of money to the cost of the rifle. If the used gun of your choice happens to be a semiauto, pay careful attention to the gas ports, usually located underneath the forearm, If they are not kept relatively free from dirt, grime, etc., the firearm will not function properly. Semiautomatic rifles, unless they are of military style, do not lend themselves well to field-stripping for thorough cleaning, so give a close examination to the bolt area, making sure all is in order. Slide or pump action rifles are relatively simple designs that have been around a long time and have garnered a large following. Use the same procedures already mentioned to examine them, just add the slide rails to your list of things to check. Make sure they are not bent or out of shape, as this will certainly cause reliability and functioning problems. It's not a bad idea to approach used rimfire rifles with a degree of caution. Ammunition is very inexpensive, affording its former owner to shoot it as much as he wanted, which more often than not, insures the pre-owned .22 shopper gets just that--a rifle that has been shot a lot. It would be wise to keep this in mind during your search. Used Shotguns Let's discuss shotguns. It's a rare gunshop indeed that does not have a few used shotguns in the racks, patiently waiting for new homes. With millions of them in circulation today, finding a good used smoothbore is not a difficult task. Overall condition of your shotgun may be examined looking for basically the same flaws and defects as the rifle, as far as finish wear, bulges, cracks and splits, etc. Like rimfire rifles, some shotguns have digested a vast amount of ammunition. But such heavy use generally shows in excess blue wear and will tip you off to the hard life that gun may have led. Check Those Chokes Until recently, say the last 10 or 15 years, fixed-choke barrels were the only game in town for shotguns. Sure, lots of people installed variable chokes on their guns, such as Poly-chokes etc., and Winchester used a screw-in type choke on a couple of their models, but the vast majority of us were stuck with what came with the shotgun. Things turned around with the proliferation of guns utilizing screw-in choke tubes. Now, with a handful of chokes, we could use one gun for all of our hunting and informal target needs. Fixed-choke guns, while not as popular as those with the screw in variety, are every bit as useful, and typically offer the used gun shopper great savings in price. Keep this in mind as you shop. If the used shotgun does come with screw in choke tubes, make sure you examine them for damage. It is fairly easy to damage the threads, making it impossible to install or remove them. Check the threads in the barrel as well for any damage. If the shotgun of your choice happens to be a semiautomatic, remove the forearm and ascertain that the friction rings or gas seals are in place and none are missing. Some models also use rubber O-rings, make sure they are not dried out or cracked, as this will interfere with reliable functioning. Sure, they're cheap and easy to replace, but check before you buy. Used pump shotguns abound in this country and remain a favorite choice for the shooter requiring the utmost in reliability. Overall, there isn't anything extra to beware of with a pump. Just make sure the operating slide or slides are not bent. Pumps generate more felt recoil than gas operated shotguns, so you might want to shop for one that already has a recoil pad installed to help alleviate some of the painful kick. Having a pad installed by a gunsmith is pricey, usually running around a century note in most locales, so bear this in mind. High-Use Guns Finding a used O/U shotgun, particularly a target version, that hasn't been shot practically to pieces is getting harder every day. It's also rare to encounter one that has not been altered from factory specifications. Adjustable combs have been installed, stocks cut or lengthened, ribs added, new triggers, and so on. This certainly does not harm the shotgun in any way, but in some cases it does detract from the resale value of the firearm, which means if the gun suits you as is, you may reap substantial savings. Make sure the forearm fits snug against the barrel, more for piece of mind than anything else. A loose one will drive you nuts. Look at the hinge pins, and examine the bottom locking lug carefully. Excessive wear could mean a trip back to the factory. The top lever that opens the action should be right of center. It is designed to wear in towards the center the more it is used. If you encounter one that is left of center, it would probably be a wise idea to pass on it and locate another one. This shotgun has seen better days. If your shotgun sports automatic ejectors, slide a couple of dummy shells into the chambers and make sure they will eject properly. Classic side-by-side shotguns may be examined using the same principles as O/U guns. If at all possible in your search for a used shotgun, try to shy away from inexpensive overseas models. It has been my experience that you will be purchasing nothing but trouble. Finding replacement parts should the need arise is often next to impossible. What about fit? How can you tell if your shotgun of choice will work for you? Unless you happen to be a die-hard target shooter, the simplest way to tell if a gun fits is to shoulder it. Shoulder it several times. Does it "feel" right? You will know if it does. Every one and every body is different, so only you can tell if it's right. One simple solution to fit for the hunter or casual shooter--if the stock seems too long, grasp the fore-end closer to the action. It will feel shorter. If it's too short, grasp the fore-end farther out. It will seem longer. With a plethora of used long guns on the market today, finding the right one for you is far from an impossible task. Actually it's quite fun. Armed with the simple tips we have discussed and a common sense approach to used guns, you should be able to shop wisely, and with luck, find that gun of your dreams; one that will last a lifetime... maybe two. RELATED ARTICLE Dummy cartridge is a good way to test function. Extractor, ejector and firing pin aperture on his Remington bolt are line, but look at this old .22 bolt! Check before you buy! Clean, undamaged muzzle crown is vital. Good bargains abound on the used gun rack. This Marlin M39 was bought for a song, but schools great. Interchangeable choke tubes can be good or bad -- make certain they're undamaged and that replacements are available. Top lever right of center says there's still life left in this old single barrel shotgun. A split forend like this will lower the purchase price but, is an easy repair you can do at home. Action bars on pump guns should be straight and sound. Sure, this safety moves back and forth, but is it working properly? Check it out!
COPYRIGHT 2003 Publishers' Development Corporation COPYRIGHT 2003 Gale Group